What a woman, what a story! I realize, with a shiver of pleasure, that my mother knew her as one of Richards’ graduate students at Harvard. The couple befriended her amd “Mrs. I.A. Richards,” as my mother called her, gave her a beautiful and unusual pair of earrings, likely a discovery from her travels. The earrings were intricately carved, and inlaid with stones in tangerine and pale green. I wonder what became of them, and how much my mother knew of Dorothy’s adventures.
That's amazing Rona - just a couple of degrees of separation from history (or past lives that weren't really in the past). Those earrings sound beautiful.
Dorothy Pilley follows on the shoulders of Fanny Workman Bullock. I am reminded of her biography, QUEEN OF THE MOUNTAINEERS, by Cathryn Prince (Chicago Review Press). Like Workman, PIlley finds a husband who will not hold her back. Fascinating to read here about Pilley's life and that she eventually returned to the UK. So informative.
Thanks Jill, that's another very interesting-sounding biography! It does seem to be a theme, that a husband could be a great encourager but you had to choose wisely... you can see why Dorothy hesitated. Not always totally the husband's fault, but societal pressures played a part.
Choosing wisely is the key. It helps if the hubs has access to funding sources. It's not a cheap sport! Expeditions required access to capital. Workman's treks to the Himalayans impressed me (nail-biting scenes). And Workman was pitted in a tabloid catfight against another American woman mountain climber Annie Smith Peck. They had to have women competing against each other rather than draw attention to their accomplishments regardless of their gender.
I was just thinking of Fanny, although I’ve always known her as Bullock Workman. She undertook notable exploratory journeys in the Karakoram; her husband was also there but it always seems like she was the leader.
As an enthusiastic mountain climber myself (in the distant past), I love this entry, Ann! I need to follow up and learn more about Dorothy Pilley. Thanks for bringing her to our attention.
Oh, that's so great to hear, Nancy. I am even more in admiration of you. Very pleased her memoir is being reissued and I'm planning to attend the launch in the Alpine Club in July (DP started her writing career with articles for them, so they prized her writing if not her skills!). I do recommend Sarah Lonsdale's book - well researched about Pilley and very readable.
What an inspirational story. It is hard to imagine how difficult it was for women to defy convention and do things that we take for granted nowadays - such as climbing. Though it is interesting that climbers who are mothers are even now sometimes labelled as irresponsible, but nobody says the same about fathers! I am so glad that Pilley’s book is being reissued.
That's so true, Kate, it made me cross that the Alpine Club didn't take the women climbers seriously for so long! And as you say, today's equivalent is holding women to a different standard than men. Gendered expectations and all that. Thanks for your lovely comment.
(Reminded me of a book written by one of my uni tutors - 'Core of my heart, my country' by Maggie McKellar which also charts the experiences of a couple of early women mountaineers, if I'm remembering correctly. Beautiful book.)
That book sounds great, Tash - thank you. Just reading in the Sarah Lonsdale book I mentioned, that women (including Pilley) only really started writing about their travels for publication after the First World War - until then, their experiences were usually recorded only in diaries & family letters.
I’m playing catch up on your archive here and this post grabbed my attention.
Dan wrote a wonderful book about Dorothy, also called ‘Climbing Days’ which i can definitely recommend, it is one of the funniest I’ve read. He and his father attempt to replicate one of Dorothy’s climbs with almost disastrous consequences. As I recall Dan texts Robert Macfarlane from a benighted dilemma on the mountain to ask for advice. I suspect Dorothy would have been a delight to know…apparently the sort of aunt who bought children in the family exciting gifts like bows and arrows.
I’m so delighted that Dorothy’s book and her life are now back in the spotlight.
Thanks Grace! I must read Dan's memoir (so funny about him texted Robert MacFarlane, I'm sure he's good in a crisis). I was thrilled to get a mention in Dan's introduction to his recent edition of Pilley's book. Honestly, I would love to find out more about Dorothy, both before and after her marriage and write more about her. She sounds like an amazing person.
Thanks Christine! Sarah Lonsdale’s book is a good place to start if you’re interested in interwar women writers - but it sounds as if you are immersed in Darwin’s travels, which is great.
I'm always interested in learning more about fascinating women in history! At the moment I'm focusing on the history of Tierra del Fuego (including people like Darwin, who shaped the European perception of the region for decades), but I'm making a note of Sarah Lonsdale's book for fun reading! Dorothy Pilley actually made me think of a nineteenth-century Scottish travel writer that I'll be profiling in a few weeks. Both were adventurous women who defied social norms for the sake of a broader life experience--and were supported by their husbands in doing so. Lady Florence Dixie was apparently quite a figure in British society in the late 1800s, and her book Across Patagonia is one of the earliest European accounts of travel to southern South America. I'm looking forward to writing about her!
Great stuff. The history of climbing and mountaineering is full of fascinating women, from Marie Paradis, who was the first woman to climb Mont Blanc (with male guides) through to Gwen Moffat, still with us at age 99, as well as modern icons like Catherine Destivelle, and Janja Garnbret, one of the stars of the Tokyo Olympics.
What a woman, what a story! I realize, with a shiver of pleasure, that my mother knew her as one of Richards’ graduate students at Harvard. The couple befriended her amd “Mrs. I.A. Richards,” as my mother called her, gave her a beautiful and unusual pair of earrings, likely a discovery from her travels. The earrings were intricately carved, and inlaid with stones in tangerine and pale green. I wonder what became of them, and how much my mother knew of Dorothy’s adventures.
That's amazing Rona - just a couple of degrees of separation from history (or past lives that weren't really in the past). Those earrings sound beautiful.
Dorothy Pilley follows on the shoulders of Fanny Workman Bullock. I am reminded of her biography, QUEEN OF THE MOUNTAINEERS, by Cathryn Prince (Chicago Review Press). Like Workman, PIlley finds a husband who will not hold her back. Fascinating to read here about Pilley's life and that she eventually returned to the UK. So informative.
Thanks Jill, that's another very interesting-sounding biography! It does seem to be a theme, that a husband could be a great encourager but you had to choose wisely... you can see why Dorothy hesitated. Not always totally the husband's fault, but societal pressures played a part.
Choosing wisely is the key. It helps if the hubs has access to funding sources. It's not a cheap sport! Expeditions required access to capital. Workman's treks to the Himalayans impressed me (nail-biting scenes). And Workman was pitted in a tabloid catfight against another American woman mountain climber Annie Smith Peck. They had to have women competing against each other rather than draw attention to their accomplishments regardless of their gender.
Yes, a good description of the so-called catfight among women that the tabloids still love. They both sound so impressive.
I was just thinking of Fanny, although I’ve always known her as Bullock Workman. She undertook notable exploratory journeys in the Karakoram; her husband was also there but it always seems like she was the leader.
Yes, I think Bullock was her maiden name. She sounds a very impressive woman. Thanks, Jon.
As an enthusiastic mountain climber myself (in the distant past), I love this entry, Ann! I need to follow up and learn more about Dorothy Pilley. Thanks for bringing her to our attention.
Oh, that's so great to hear, Nancy. I am even more in admiration of you. Very pleased her memoir is being reissued and I'm planning to attend the launch in the Alpine Club in July (DP started her writing career with articles for them, so they prized her writing if not her skills!). I do recommend Sarah Lonsdale's book - well researched about Pilley and very readable.
What an inspirational story. It is hard to imagine how difficult it was for women to defy convention and do things that we take for granted nowadays - such as climbing. Though it is interesting that climbers who are mothers are even now sometimes labelled as irresponsible, but nobody says the same about fathers! I am so glad that Pilley’s book is being reissued.
That's so true, Kate, it made me cross that the Alpine Club didn't take the women climbers seriously for so long! And as you say, today's equivalent is holding women to a different standard than men. Gendered expectations and all that. Thanks for your lovely comment.
What an exceptional woman. Thanks for this.
(Reminded me of a book written by one of my uni tutors - 'Core of my heart, my country' by Maggie McKellar which also charts the experiences of a couple of early women mountaineers, if I'm remembering correctly. Beautiful book.)
That book sounds great, Tash - thank you. Just reading in the Sarah Lonsdale book I mentioned, that women (including Pilley) only really started writing about their travels for publication after the First World War - until then, their experiences were usually recorded only in diaries & family letters.
Hugely inspiring! Thank you for highlighting yet another trailblazer. And that quote...
Thanks Maria! Dorothy Pilley had a way with words, as well as with mountains - I am in awe.
How inspiring!
Thank you, she really is!
I’m playing catch up on your archive here and this post grabbed my attention.
Dan wrote a wonderful book about Dorothy, also called ‘Climbing Days’ which i can definitely recommend, it is one of the funniest I’ve read. He and his father attempt to replicate one of Dorothy’s climbs with almost disastrous consequences. As I recall Dan texts Robert Macfarlane from a benighted dilemma on the mountain to ask for advice. I suspect Dorothy would have been a delight to know…apparently the sort of aunt who bought children in the family exciting gifts like bows and arrows.
I’m so delighted that Dorothy’s book and her life are now back in the spotlight.
Thanks Grace! I must read Dan's memoir (so funny about him texted Robert MacFarlane, I'm sure he's good in a crisis). I was thrilled to get a mention in Dan's introduction to his recent edition of Pilley's book. Honestly, I would love to find out more about Dorothy, both before and after her marriage and write more about her. She sounds like an amazing person.
I love this story! What a life and career! Thanks for sharing—
Many thanks, Victoria! I am a huge Dorothy Pilley fan as you can probably tell…
So interesting!
Thank you Rebecca!
Brilliant story thank you. What achievements she accomplished! I’m glad she met a partner who enriched her life.
Many thanks, Liz. I enjoy a love story that really did do them both good!
So interesting! What a fascinating life! This definitely makes me want to learn more about her.
Thanks Christine! Sarah Lonsdale’s book is a good place to start if you’re interested in interwar women writers - but it sounds as if you are immersed in Darwin’s travels, which is great.
I'm always interested in learning more about fascinating women in history! At the moment I'm focusing on the history of Tierra del Fuego (including people like Darwin, who shaped the European perception of the region for decades), but I'm making a note of Sarah Lonsdale's book for fun reading! Dorothy Pilley actually made me think of a nineteenth-century Scottish travel writer that I'll be profiling in a few weeks. Both were adventurous women who defied social norms for the sake of a broader life experience--and were supported by their husbands in doing so. Lady Florence Dixie was apparently quite a figure in British society in the late 1800s, and her book Across Patagonia is one of the earliest European accounts of travel to southern South America. I'm looking forward to writing about her!
I'll be very interested to hear more about Florence Dixie - she sounds great. Thanks, Christine!
One of those stories that just make one happy. Thank you!
Thanks on both counts. I did enjoy writing it.
Also, beautifully told, on several different levels.
So interesting. I shall look out for the memoir. I shall also look out for the book of rebel women. Thank you!
Many thanks, June!
Great stuff. The history of climbing and mountaineering is full of fascinating women, from Marie Paradis, who was the first woman to climb Mont Blanc (with male guides) through to Gwen Moffat, still with us at age 99, as well as modern icons like Catherine Destivelle, and Janja Garnbret, one of the stars of the Tokyo Olympics.
That's so interesting to hear, Jon. Thank you.
What a great story ... may Dorothy Pilley's determination encourage all of us to following our own calls.
Absolutely, Joyce! Thank you.